My Moroccan partner teacher, Abdellatif, spends 21 hours teaching English. The classes range in size from 20 to almost 50 students. The building is a simple design with a courtyard in the center of a two stories of classrooms. Each classroom has a rows of double desks, a white board and a chalkboard. The walls are bare, there is no heat so I wear my jacket if I need to be at school in the morning. The teachers work either a morning shift or an afternoon shift, but everyone leaves at 12 and the students and afternoon shift teachers return at 2. Most of the students come from the edges of the town of Ain Aouda and some walk as far as 5 kilometers to get to school. Abdellatif tells me most of the teachers give rides to students they see walking every morning. I'm impressed by the classroom management although the graffiti on the walls and the desks is extensive. Education is valued but the French education system that is left from the protectorate era has complicated the process. The final regional and national exams are the final sorting mechanism that will deny or allow access to higher education.
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As I walked through the narrow alleyways of old Fez, or the medina, it’s like stepping back into time. We passed hundreds of small workshops or stalls that had only one workman. There were hundreds of shops selling olives, vegetables, handmade goods and more. The medina provides everything for living inside the walled city where there are no cars. Each area of the medina is divided again into neighborhoods signaled by smaller arches. And each neighborhood has its own bakery, Koranic school for young children, hamman or public bath for women, fountain for water, and mosque. Our guide told us that the medina does not give up its secrets easily. Behind doors were spectacular examples of medieval architecture dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. Between the king’s palace and the medina is the mellah or the Jewish quarter with balconies that are now covered so an observant Muslim woman could not be seen from the street or another house. What was striking was the amount of scaffolding needed to secure sections of the medina that are in danger of collapsing. Although it has been designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, there is a challenge of restoring and sustaining a 540 acre medieval town where 350,000 people still live and work. Two boys bringing the family bread back from the bakery. It was very common to see the children or wives carrying the dough that had risen to the bakery. Once inside the doors of the medina are tiled courtyards, carved doors and hospitality unique to Morocco. Below are a few photos of the shops and alleyways, including a mule station. The mules are the transportation for getting something in, out or around the medina. Today was the first day at the high school and everyone was kind and welcoming. However, as I was doing a presentation about South Philadelphia High School in front of the students the principal walked into the classroom and said, "Excuse me." I nodded my head to signal no problem and continued. Then he said, "Excuse me" again! Apparently I needed to stop what I was doing until he left the room. I'm much more used to the principal waiting a minute or two until I am finished. This was a family size plate of traditional Moroccan salads. Coffee is served in a glass. Grilled cheese seems to always come in the shape of a heart and beautiful desserts influenced by the French. A nice array of Moroccan salads.
I've had a challenge with internet connections, so I haven't been able to post as much as I would like to. The answers to the previous days questions are: 1. Morocco was the first country to recognize the United States as an independent country. 2. True for the Treaty. 3. Teachers can hit students, but it is becoming less and less popular. 4. Most students graduate knowing at least 4 languages if not more. The would know French, Derija (Moroccan dialect of Arabic), classical Arabic, and English or a tribal language. Today I presented to a class rather small class of seniors about my family and South Philadelphia High School. They do not have elective classes in high school because every student must declare a major that is either in the humanities or that is math and science. All the students must pass a regional exam that counts toward 25% of their final national examination all seniors take. The regional exam is taken in the 11th grade. The picture above is a teacher who is preparing students for the national examination in math and science. Most of the students are applying for engineering in universities in Morocco, France and Canada. 1. Morocco was the __________ country to recognize the independence of the United States? a. 1st b. 10th c. 54th 2. The Treaty of Friendship between Morocco and the United States is the longest lasting treaty between two countries in the world. a. True b. False 3. It is acceptable for teachers to hit students. a. True b. False 4. How many languages can a typical Moroccan student speak by the time they graduate high school? a. One. b. Two c. Three d. More than three Answers tomorrow. Yesterday was filled with meetings about the cultural similarities and differences between Moroccan and American culture, a lesson on the Moroccan history and a visit to the U.S.Embassy to meet with the Director of English Language Programming and Services in Morocco. That was all the big picture. The little details were very interesting. My bedside table in the hotel room has a compass painted on the top so the occupant knows which direction to pray. I'm offered water to wash my hands before a meal. People cross the street anywhere they want. Personal space is much closer between a woman and a woman or a man and a man. However there is always a distance between men and women. There was a nerve gas injection antidote on the wall at the U.S. Embassy. Yikes. The flight from Philadelphia to JFK was delayed and I had to take a direct flight to Paris to meet the cohort instead of meeting the group in New York to make the flight together. Everything went smoothly from there except my luggage was on the delayed flight so my fingers are crossed that I will see it tomorrow. A short drive from the airport in Rabat to the hotel and then a Moroccan Arabic lesson with our wonderful host in Rabat, Meriem. A few of us took a walk to check out the neighborhood around the hotel and since it's Sunday the streets were crowded with families taking a walk and looking for sales in the markets. My Arabic phrase that sums up the last 24 hours is 'labas, l-hamdullah' that translates as 'Good. Thanks be to God'. We all arrived safely and there is not anything quite like Moroccan mint tea or the menthe to help a tired traveler with the afternoon wave of jet lag. I'll post more soon. I spent a weekend in Washington, D.C. at the Fairmont Hotel with an incredible array of thoughtful teachers and thought provoking sessions. I left each session with great information to continue to build on my own global competencies. Friday night a group of us went to the Ethiopian restaurant Das and had a delicious meal and some great conversations about teaching, learning and engaging students. Then there was the last session with Deborah Hefferon, a cross-cultural communications expert. This session provided some necessary tools for navigating potential misunderstandings and misconceptions. The details are slowly getting in order - lesson plans, packing, arrangements for the free time in Morocco, what to get our host teacher, what souvenirs for the students, checking the weather and the exchange rate to name a few - phew!
I also keep thinking about my essential question and am looking forward to more discussions with the other members of the cohort about their questions. I love Morocco and the last time I was there was for a wedding. Now it's about building relationships and understanding through an educational exchange and dialogue. Our cohort received some really good logistical information from Taoufik that answered a lot of the little questions. I'm beginning to feel much more ready. |
Fran W.
I am a high school English to Speakers of Other Languages teacher. I am passionate about bridging cultures, diversity and teaching and learning in a flattened world. I am inspired by the words of Kwame Anthony Appiah, "The challenge, then, is to take the minds and hearts formed over the long millennia of living in local troops and equip them with ideas and institutions that will allow us to live together as the global tribe we have become." Archives
August 2014
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